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Suggested design mods

Discussion in 'Original Phlatprinter MODIFICATIONS' started by Anonymous, Feb 16, 2009.

  1. Anonymous

    Anonymous New Member

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    I decided to open a separate thread where we could list possible design mods for mnt to incorporate into future pp's. Feel free to add your suggestions.
    (If a similar thread exists, please move this post to that thread.)

    I'd like to suggest the front, back and sides be made 1" taller, at the bottom, to allow for some clearance below the gantry. Optimally, I think it should close off the lower back panel, so the pp will still stand if it is placed "sideways" on a narrow support table. I glued and screwed a piece of 1" X 1" X 30" inside, at the back and along the bottom of my pp, just for this reason.
     
  2. 3DMON

    3DMON Moderator Staff Member

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    I agree about the 1" taller. That would allow for bigger steppers too. Maybe make the one side a little longer so the cover plate could conceal bigger steppers too.

    Also bring the top surface up about 3/32" so the roller insn't up as high off the surface.

    I think the bushing/drill rod mod would be a great addition too.
     
  3. Anonymous

    Anonymous New Member

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    You know, you wouldn't need to raise the surface if you can deepen the notches for the drum's bushings by 3/32" instead. That would be fairly simple to do, before everything gets glued together.
    I'd forgotten about that little mod.
     
  4. blindflight

    blindflight Moderator Staff Member

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    I have mine setting on a welded 1"x1"square extrusion frame to have it higher. This works good, I also put a 1/4" of rubber pad to insulate any vibrations under the frame..
     
  5. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Great ideas guys keep'em coming thanks you it will be a big help
    MnT
     
  6. dbtoutfit

    dbtoutfit New Member

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    Mark, I have my machine running now. After just a few minutes of play I can say the biggest mechanical difference I would change without a doubt is getting rid of the Y Gantry axis All thread/Acme screw drive. I am changing mine over to Belt. It's not expensive and the feed rates are just crazy fast. On such a long Y axis the screw is just not very efficient. If you think about many machines: printers, vinyl cutters cnc machines etc etc, are belt driven for this that have long travel.

    As I said before when I get my machine completed I will upload my build. I'll show how I did it and maybe it will give you some starting ideas for the next machine.

    Eric :)
    BTW I totally agree with the above suggestions all are issues I have had probs with like my double ended stepper motors bottom-ing-out etc.
     
  7. Anonymous

    Anonymous New Member

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    Eric, I'd love to see how you got the Y-axis on a belt! I was thinking about it myself, but just got lazy and did the Acme thread mod instead. :oops: You're going to start your own new thread when you post it? I'd hate for THAT to get lost here.
     
  8. 3DMON

    3DMON Moderator Staff Member

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    Can't wait to see the belt mod. That would be a huge improvement.
     
  9. dbtoutfit

    dbtoutfit New Member

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    Yea I will start a New thread :)

    I just can tell after getting mine completed and tuned that this is 100% the way to go. 22 inches cutting thru foam just screams belt plus zero backlash and it's not expensive at all.

    Eric
     
  10. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    the phlatprinter ver.2 should have a thicker, more robust case....with extra clearances not just on the bottom, around the front and top on gantry as well. this will allow the fellas a little room to use channel for bracing if they choose like i did.......i would make thicker, because when i was working on mine, i would see the case flex when i was indicating in my linear rods. also the top around the cutting slot flexes alot.....i would use 1/2in. around the case sides, and 3/8in. for the top and top feed roll holder. in addition i would use 1/4in. for the removable end caps......dorsal "dennis" wanted the back closed off also, this would be great and make the case more ridgid. maybe a 1/8in. deep layout cut for a optional vacuume hole.... and with the new version printer incorporate the use of bronze bushings, for the linear movements.another thing mark, instruct the fella machining the printer to "relieve the corners" better, like drill a 1/8in. in the corner intersections, for a better fit when building kit. i had to sit ther and do em all by hand with my exacto knife, took me a wile, lols. i wanted perfect joint fits when i did mine. and one more thing...i would use my adjustable linear rod mod...so handy for tweaking for that perfect slide......peace, randy.
     

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