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Welcome to The Phlatforum PhlatPrinter III

Control Horn VideoTutorial

Discussion in 'SketchUcam Tutorials' started by kram242, May 13, 2011.

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  1. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    SketchUcam and SketchUp - Control Horn VideoTutorial
    Hey guyz,
    Here is a tutorial that covers a lot of the basics of SketchUcam and SketchUp itself..
    We start with and idea and create a part cut out and assemble it :good:
    In the video it takes a while, due to the fact that we are making it in a tutorial fashion. In real life this would have taken about 10 to 20 minutes to create.
    Note: The control horns in the video are a first prototype. Toward the end if the video you will see the final version. This final version is the one included in the files below
    Hope this helps, Have fun! :D
    Mark and Trish





    Materials Needed:
    Phlatprinter:------------------ (Be sure to recode overhead if cutting on the MK1 or 2)
    Bit:-----------------------------1/16" tile grout or laminate bit (@Mcmaster Carr)
    Foam Carrier/ Spoiler: --------------- 1/2" Dow (@Lowes)
    1/16 Material for cutting: - 1/16" Garolite or 1/16 ply (@Mcmaster Carr)
    Tape:-------------------------- Packing Tape to hold Material to carrier/spoiler
    _______________________________________________________________________________________

    Attached files Control Horn.cnc (1.8 MB)Â Control Horn.skp (2.2 MB)Â [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    kram242, May 13, 2011
    #1
    Steve Kaschimer likes this.
  2. dz1sfb

    dz1sfb Member

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    Wow! Very nice control horns.

    I don't want to invoke any ire, but they seem like extreme overkill for a foamie. I have found that a simple flat horn inserted into the foam with glue is more than adequate. I would like to try making mine this way.

    I suppose though the main point is to learn to cut them with our Phlatprinters for this I am grateful.
     
    dz1sfb, May 13, 2011
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  3. rescue911

    rescue911 Active Member

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    Thats cool Mark.
    Thank you. :doubleup:
     
    rescue911, May 13, 2011
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  4. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Cool deal guyz :good: glad to see it helps. I thought it may have been too long? I wanted to show the whole process, so that it may help with someone working on a completely different design but use some ideas found in this tutorial.
    Thanks again
    Mark and Trish
     
    kram242, May 13, 2011
    #4
  5. blindflight

    blindflight Moderator Staff Member

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    Really nice work there Mark!! :doubleup: :doubleup: :doubleup: :doubleup:
     
    blindflight, May 14, 2011
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  6. nitro

    nitro Member

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    Hello,
    I cant tell ou how much stuff like these tutorials help. You did a great job. keep them coming...
    Larry
     
    nitro, May 14, 2011
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  7. blindflight

    blindflight Moderator Staff Member

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    I just cut some parts out, really nice. No more buying :dance3:
    Thanks Mark & Trish Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    blindflight, May 15, 2011
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  8. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Nice job Al! :doubleup:
    I see your X axis is a little off you may want to add a little backlash comp. Make sure your CNCUSB software is up to date. Go to the help menu to update it and then add a little backlash comp for the x in the settings menu. Maybe soothing like 0.014? Do a few test and see if that helps. Also check that you are giving the steppers enough power. Use your volt meter to set it at 2.5 on test point 1 and maybe try 2.8 on the x.
    Hope this helps
    Mark and Trish
     
    kram242, May 15, 2011
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  9. dz1sfb

    dz1sfb Member

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    Excellent job on the video Mark! I just got around to seeing the whole thing.

    Thank you,
     
    dz1sfb, Jun 1, 2011
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  10. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Thanks Larry, Al, Ken :oops: I know its long, but I wanted to go through the whole process just to give an idea of the workflow that was taken.
    Mark and Trish
     
    kram242, Jun 4, 2011
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  11. gizzmo

    gizzmo New Member

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    This is great stuff mark :good:

    like nitro was telling ... this way we can really learn from each other techniques.
    Keep them coming
    Many Thx!
     
    gizzmo, Jun 5, 2011
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  12. dz1sfb

    dz1sfb Member

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    Okay, I got to put this into practice today. Used 1/8" liteply with a 1/32" carbide endmill. Used the multi-pass at .025". Parts came out very nice. Never thought I would be doing this with the Iron Phlatprinter.

    Thanks for the tutorial Mark! Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    dz1sfb, Jun 5, 2011
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  13. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Looks great Ken :doubleup:
    One thing I am noticing is that your center hole looks like it may be cutting in the wrong direction as the 'rough' side of the cut is still on the part. Check to see that your center hole cut line is an inside cut and not an outside one.
    Great job!
    Mark and Trish
     
    kram242, Jun 6, 2011
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  14. dz1sfb

    dz1sfb Member

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    I'll have to double chack that Mark.

    One thing for sure is that the Y axis rods (1/2" drill rods) are allowing some play cutting against the harder material. cutter kerf is significantly larger than 1/32" of the cutter.
     
    dz1sfb, Jun 7, 2011
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  15. SilverFox

    SilverFox Member

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    Great video Mark! I put it to use and made myself some control horns out of some G10. They are not perfect, but it was a great learning experience. The G10 is a bit thinner, so it does not fit together as nice as yours. I'm sure they will work fine. Thanks again.
     
    SilverFox, Aug 15, 2011
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  16. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Awesome SilverFox! :doubleup:
    Glad to see this this video helped out
    Thanks for letting me know :good:
    Mark and Trish
     
    kram242, Aug 17, 2011
    #16
  17. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    I didn't feel like paying the price for the Gerolite so I was scouring the dollar stores for something suitable and after a few tries I found this item. It worked like a charm. I cut the horns with the multipass making two passes. I also had the horns reduced by, i think, 50%. I've cut about 15 horns and used maybe 15% of the tray. :dance3: Can't beat this for a price of one whole dollar. :dance3:

    Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    TigerPilot, Sep 10, 2011
    #17
  18. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Great idea Yoram! :doubleup:
    Thanks for the tip
    Mark and Trish
     
    kram242, Sep 12, 2011
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  19. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    GREAT idea.... As the plate is rather 3 dimensional, Did phlatten the plate by cutting out the bottom of the dish and attach to a carrier?
     
    rcav8r, Sep 12, 2011
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  20. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    Yup, I've cut the bottom out and glued it to a dollar tree foam. It gave me a circle of about 11" and all that for one whole dollar. Too expensive!!! :D :D

    BTW, I just noticed that it is not 15% but more like 25% that I've used in my first cut. :oops: Attached files [​IMG]
     
    TigerPilot, Sep 12, 2011
    #20
  21. Haiduk

    Haiduk New Member

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    Mark,
    In your video the values shown in the Parameters dialog are listed in decimal values. I'm getting fractional values. When I enter "0.180" for material thickness the editbox is changing that value to "~ 3/16" after I click OK. The problem is when I reopen the properties box and change something else the material thickness becomes "3/16" (or .1875) not "0.180". I have to change the material thickness to "0.180" every time I change any setting in the Parameters dialog or it gets rounded to the nearest fraction.

    My question is how to I get the editboxes to display decimal values, like in your video, instead of fractional values?
     
    Haiduk, Oct 7, 2011
    #21
  22. 3DMON

    3DMON Moderator Staff Member

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    Click on the windows tab, then model info, then units. Attached files [​IMG]
     
    3DMON, Oct 7, 2011
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  23. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Thanks Shaun :good:
     
    kram242, Oct 7, 2011
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  24. Haiduk

    Haiduk New Member

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    That's exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
     
    Haiduk, Oct 7, 2011
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  25. johnbernard36

    johnbernard36 Member

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    I thought I'd share some control horns that can be used without the additional plate.

    I found that a simple slot, with 5 or 12 min epoxy, will provide great control on even the largest surfaces. I've used the larger ones for balsa surfaces as well without any problems.

    The holes in the base provide a super glue joint. The control surface will break before the glue joint fails.
    I apply a temporary piece of scotch tape on the back face of the slot in the control surface. This makes for a nice neat and almost invisible joint.

    Enjoy!
    John



    Attached files CONTROL HORNS - JDB.skp (9.2 MB)Â [​IMG]
     
    johnbernard36, Oct 26, 2011
    #25
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