Here is some pictures of the sign I did for the band "The Luck of Eden Hall".
The sign was engraved and cut out on my pp 3.
The stand is hand made on my table router.







I value all of your opinions, and advice out here in on the PhlatForum.
Let me know what you folks think.

Cheers.
George H. Boyd Attached files

 

outstanding as usual.

 

Thanks for the complements, but the best one yet is coming up next.
Stay tuned, because it's gonna be cool.

Thanks again for the positive feedback.

Cheers.
George

 

Wow George!

That's pretty cool. Did you mention what bit/speeds you used? I would love to make something for my kids like this. I was thinking of doing a clock/night light.

 

There are a lot of small variables that have to be worked out in order to get the
result I've gotten. You'll have to do some experimenting to find what works for you.

One thing you can do is make sure your pp is calibrated and accurate.
I run various sizes of circles and squares with scrap acrylic as a test.
If I don't get accurate results it's time to do some maintenance.
All it takes is a little bit scrap stuck inside a pulley groove to ruin a project.
I always check my machine for problems before starting a new project.

Sometimes it isn't a pp problem, it's the pp operator. :girl_cray2: :questions: :think:
I use Rhino3D 4.0, and RhinoCam 2.0. I use these programs exclusively for all my design work.
I have made some real bone headed mistakes with G-Code.
I have made mistakes in my setups that I've paid for in lost materials. :x :roll:
Make sure you're setups are good. I always run a test cut project in foam before cutting acrylic.


Some other things you might want to check on your pp. Make sure that the drive
rollers are parallel to the Y-Axis. I found that my Y-Axis was out of parallel vertically by .005".
A peace of .005" KS brass shim stock fixed the problem. Also make sure your drive
rollers are parallel to each other. Make sure your Y-axis is at 90º to your X-Axis also.
In other words, make sure all Axises are true to each other.
Keep your pp in good working order, and the rewards will be AWESOME.

I use a 45º carbide edged cutter running at 20" a minute. The router speed was 18K RPM's.
You only need to go 1/64" (.015625") deep to get good results in acrylic.
Depth control is very important in getting good results. Remember that for every 1/64"
you go into the plastic with a 45º bit, you're creating a gap at the surface that's 1/32" wide.
A little trigonometry helps when choosing V-cutters.

I hope this helps you get good results. If I can be of help to you just post.

Cheers.
George

 

Thanks a lot for the information. Ill be sure to ask if I have any questions. Once again, great work.

 

Excellent work, as usual, George.

Tweakie.