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rcflyboynj's Build

Discussion in 'Phlatprinter BUILD LOGS' started by rcflyboynj, Dec 4, 2011.

  1. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    To begin the thread, I have made my first cut on the platprinter... The 29 7/8ths rod. More to follow with pics. :doubleup:

    *Edit: This build might be following the same lines *** @FozzyTheBear's build...10 impossible things to do before breakfast. lol :dance3:

    ~Nathan

    Watch it live! here!

    http://www.ustream.tv/channel/the-fly-g ... lang=en_US
     
  2. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Rods cut... working on wires next.





    Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  3. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Tee nuts drilled, End caps drilled, Pulleys drilled, Grip tape cut, and on to Part two step one. :dance3:

    Sorry for the lack of photos, there just isn't much to see ... yet :02cents:






    Stay tuned
    :beta:
    :flying: Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  4. matt_o_70

    matt_o_70 Member

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    pay attention extra when you go to glue the pulleys to the end of the large pipe... one of min must have moved and so I ended up with a little hop when I spin the roller.. Argh!
     
  5. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Thanks for the tip! Got plenty of clamps... will be sure to firm it up when I get there.

    ~ Nathan
     
  6. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Start on the Drive Roller :doubleup:

    Attached files [​IMG]
     
  7. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Cool Nate glad to see you started this build log thank you!
    Take your time and have fun with it. :)
    Mark and Trish
     
  8. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    more pics. :D



    Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  9. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Looking good there Nate :good:
    Make sure you do a couple steps ahead (dry fitting) to make sure you have it right before you commit to glue. That overhang should be there to allow for the back wall to sit flush
    Keep up the good work
    Mark and Trish
     
  10. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    So your're build a MKI? I thought you had one.....

    Anywho... You may want to consider building in the belt mod of the Y axis. Before you finish cutting out your first of 2 tables, you'll wish you had it.
     
  11. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Just waiting on electronics now. Any good references for the belt mod? I've been looking around, but am just going to get it up and running stock first.

    Also, Any tips for cutting EPP?

    Thanks,

    ~ Nathan
     
  12. navionflyer

    navionflyer New Member

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  13. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    dry fit



    Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  14. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    The Dremmel assembly is tight when it gets closer to the bottom, and with it on, part #8 will not fit on. Without the assembly, part #8 will fit on.

    ~ Nathan Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  15. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Hi Nate,
    This may not be the problem yet but fist I would say that you need to hacksaw the bolts off so they don't hit the back plate #7 This could be throwing the alignment off.

    Also these holes (Z gantry plate # 1,3,4 that hold the pexpipe) will be offset from the Y gantry holes in plates # 6B and 8 to allow for the pexpipe to ride on the outsides of the rods taking up the slack in the pexpipe hole size in comparison to the rod diameter. (This was what had to be done using what we could find at LOWES that would work and was inexpensive and it works well) see pics below
    If you cut the bolts off and still cannot fit that parts together there must be an issue with some of the holes being cut working and we will send you out a new set for the YZ gantry. If you do get them to fit together after the bolts are cut but its tight make sure you lube the rods and you should be able to work it in then.
    Let me know how you make out with this.
    Thanks Nate
    Mark and Trish Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  16. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Ok. Thanks for the pictures. I'll work on that. :)
     
  17. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Ok... Ran into another problem. There is no slot by the Y stepper hole in part #18 B for part #23. Just something where I can saw off the tab and glue it flush... just wanted to post a couple of pics for future reference.

    ~ Nathan Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  18. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Hi Nate,
    Your right this is a mistake on my end for some reason I did not code that slot on 18B and it should have been there.(pic below shows slot on part 18B) I have gone back and checked the cut codes for the MK1 and its there.
    This was a design change that was added to the MK1 a while back to allow for the square motors and this one must have slipped by us during the initial testing for this change. I can send you another (18B) if you like but to be honest it will be fine to cut the back tab from 23 and glue the parts up. That back tab is really there for alignment purpose and does not have any structural affect so you will be good there. Thanks for letting us know about that and please accept our apologies for this overlook on our part. Keep up the good work Nate your really moving along now! :good:
    Mark and Trish
    Ultimate 3D.zip Attached files [​IMG]
     
  19. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Mark and Trish,

    No worries! It was something easily fixed, got it cut sanded, and it is drying right now. :dance3: Just thought I would mention it in case it hadn't been noticed. Thank you so much for the support throughout this project, I really appreciate it and can't wait to start cranking out planes! :doubleup:

    ~ Nathan
    :banger:
     
  20. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Sounds awesome bro! Thanks for bringing this up I need to go back over the code and make sure everything was ok.
    Any thoughts on what you are you going to make for your first cut?
    Thank you for the kind words :)
    Mark and Trish
     
  21. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    I was thinking the classic phlat tables, but just going to set the ear or wave to make sure everything is tuned in. Then off to a Leadfeather PbF for my dad. Still have a couple designs up my sleeve... More like doodles in the side of my notebooks. lol Should be coming out soon too...

    ~ Nathan
     
  22. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Cool!
    Just a note to read the READ ME file attached to the older 3D examples on the disk. They were done a long time ago and the federates maybe set VERY high on some of them so you will need to slow your machine down to a reasonable rate to carve them. Other then that they will cut out fine :)
    Mark and Trish
     
  23. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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  24. Jnida63

    Jnida63 Member

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    Pretty simple hookup really, the transformer is a stepdown from 120v ac to probably 24v ac.

    The brown and yellow wires go to the ac connections on the power supply, the black and white get outlet voltage.

    The dc terminals on the board go to your stepper board and ignore the battery, it is for battery backup for a security or fire alarm system.

    You also don't need to worry about the trouble relays, they are also for security or fire alarms.

    Also you can see a little wire clip up towards the right top, it is a jumper, it should be not touching or open for 24 volts, close it for 12 volt output.
     
  25. rcflyboynj

    rcflyboynj Member

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    Awesome! Thanks. got the jumper part figured out. On the AC side, the plug needs to be replaced, so I am going to get onto that soon. On the DC side, what is the black wire for?


    Thanks,

    ~ Nathan
     

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