Taulman's 618 1.75mm Nylon Co-Polymer will go on sale starting this Wednesday 12/12/2012 for Pre-Order.



taulman's "618" High Strength Nylon Co-Polymer specifically engineered for 3D Printing.

Price = $19.75 for a 1 pound, 3mm or 1.75mm Spool, plus Shipping and Tax

Get the High Strength, Durability, Pliability and Beauty for the print that counts......"Your Print"!

Specifications:
Size = 3mm or 1.75mm Round
Color = Natural - Prints as a bright natural to white with a translucent surface. Add color with most common clothing dyes.
Temperature = 235C to 270C - Part/Speed dependent. 240C-250C is best for most parts at average printing speeds.
Co-Polymer = 4-Station-Drawn and Extruded "3D Printing Specific" Nylon based co-polymer. Specifically designed for 3D Printing applications where excellent surface bonding, reduced water absorption, tear resistance and dye absorption are combined in an easy-to-print 3mm/1.75mm line.
Tensile strength at yield, 10,029 psi A.S.T.M Test Method D638
Rockwell Hardness (Method A) D785 R104
With a visual and tactile surface quality 2nd to none. Parts 3D Printed with taulman 618 Nylon co-polymer will be instantly recognizable as high quality polymer.
Chemically resistance to = Alcohols, Resins+MEK, Oils, Acetone, Most all Alkaline, most 2 part Casting Compounds.
618 is Manufactured in the U.S.A.

More information here: http://www.taulman3d.com/
Check out the FAQ's here: http://www.taulman3d.com/faq.html
Mark and Trish Attached files

 

Pretty cool stuff.

 

This stuff looks awesome! I bought a 1lb spool.

 

Shaun, can't blame you there this is perfect for the spindle mount project you created
Just ordered mine as well

@David, I did not get a chance to read all the FAQ, but I did find this:

So it looks like were good there. Plus some of the testers reported using blue tape successfully.

 

Found this cool use for 618 on printing a UAV fuse "UAV fuselage 3D Printed in Nylon for Lightweight and Strength"


http://www.diydrones.com/profiles/blogs/uav-fuselage-3d-printed-in-nylon-for-lightweight-and-strength
Mark and Trish

 

Very KOOL stuff !!

 

I snagged a roll a week or so ago and other than dropping my HBP .003 and adding blue tape(kind of works) I use the same settings as ABS. 240C on a 110C base but running smooth and slow at 60mm/s on a .2 layer. I've tried in at my normal ABS speed but it didn't work to well. It's good stuff and opens a lot of possibilities, definitely a keeper.

 

Good to hear 66, just got mine today so I look forward to it!
Mark and Trish

 

The power of the shrink on this stuff is amazing. I using blue painters tape on kapton (because I'm to lazy to remove it) and on the tape I use a very thin ABS slurry and let dry. I've also had good luck with that slurry on rag paper on the kapton. The heated bed (115C) evaporates the acetone quickly and the paper sticks fine. I've heard wood glue is good too.

For small parts all is well. Printing tall-ish parts over a cubic inch or two in volume and weird things start to happen. One print stuck so good it pulled the tape up

So I sealed the build chamber ever more and it works better. I don't mind the shrinking but it needs to shrink after its been printed. Compensating for shrinkage in order to get an accurate dimension from the CAD drawing is going to be tricky. Right now my ambient chamber temp is 50C. Hopefully it will be better in the summer when its at 75-80C. Where the minimum shrink temperature is don't know. But my ABS larger prints are very good done in a hot chamber.

Oh, and plan on doing a re-spool because it will overlap in the package during shipping. It's fine if your right there and can fix it on the fly but for me a long unattended print is not possible in stock packaging.

 

Thanks for these tips John I have not had the chance to work with it yet but it sounds like its going to be a little bit of a learning curve, then again every time I put new filament it seems to be that way Its all go though I love the challenge of trying to tweak to perfection! As for the over-lapping spooling, in the past I purchased the un-spooled filament and it was a nightmare so I know what you mean about being right there walking it though. I never bought another un-spooled roll again. Not until we can find a way to spool them up quick and easy on the empty spools we have laying around here.
Thanks again for the heads up
Mark and Trish

 

A re-spooler is on my design list. A motor assembly from MPJA.com or American Scientific Supply should work fine at a dirt cheap price. I've got a pound of glow in the dark than is in a rats nets the size of a beach ball. A filament joiner is another needed jig. To many projects

 

whoa a filament joiner! now there's another must have for projects list.
Mark and Trish