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Best way to tighten Z-Axis bearings?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting and Build Support' started by NeilBlanchard, Apr 30, 2012.

  1. NeilBlanchard

    NeilBlanchard Member

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    Hi,

    When I brought my PhlatPrinter 3 inside the house for the winter (it was out on the screen porch) it warmed up, and several things loosened up. The Y-axis belt I know how to do. But the Z-axis bearings are difficult to gain leverage on to hold them firmly against the rails while tightening the nut. Is there a tried and true method for doing this on an assembled machine?
     
  2. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    Did you try taking the sides off? Once they are off it is easy to pull them together while tightening the two nuts on the left side (left when looking at the printer) where the elongated holes are. If you are careful it may be enough to take only the left side off.
     
  3. NeilBlanchard

    NeilBlanchard Member

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    Thanks -- I'll remove the left side at least and see if I can make it work. The bottom one on the left is the culprit -- it moves about 1/16"+ and I know that won't fly.
     
  4. foamlvr

    foamlvr Member

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    I also elongated the holes on the right a little. If you only do one side at a time, vertical alignment shouldn't suffer.
     
  5. Rowedent

    Rowedent Member

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    i was cutting out some 3mm ply wood yesterday and noticed that i was getting a lot of wiggle on the carriage due to the torque. i was cutting at 400 in per min and 0.037 depth on the multicut. i dont see such a problem cutting foaf since its easier to cut than butter.
    i guess i need to go in and tighten up the z axis ...but i hate to mess with it since it is doing well on foam.

    any ideas?
     
  6. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    Which printer do you have? I have the III and I had to tighten the gantry but is was not a big deal. The tool that came with the kit helped a lot.

    400ipm??? WOW, I never cut anything at more than 100ipm. When I cut plywood, or any wood for that matter, I cut at 30ipm. Mind you, I use a 1/6" bit for my cutting most of the time.
     
  7. Rowedent

    Rowedent Member

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    i have the MIII, i guess i typed in too many zeros, i am using 40.i usually use 80 for foam. i need to go watch the construction videos again, i thought that the tool was just to tighten the y axis stepper motor. i use a 1/16 bit for just about everything....it seems like a larger bit would have to remove more material and have more resistance trying to push it through the wood...any ideas on that?
     
  8. Rowedent

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    does anyone use any wax or grease on the steel rods that the traveler rides on?
     
  9. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    The diameter of the bit depends on the thickness of the material. If I cut 3/4" poplar, the only bit long enough I can get is a 2.2mm bit. If I cut 1/4" material I stick with 1/16" bits.

    Even when I cut with 7mm bit, for surface planing (I don't use fly cutters), I still cut at about 25ipm with a shallow cut.
     
  10. Angelo barreira

    Angelo barreira New Member

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    Olá. Eu recebi partes do laser de MK3 cortar MDF 6mm, que tinha encomendado em uma empresa aqui no Brasil, mas eu estou lutando para montar, estava seguindo os desenhos SketchUp, mas isso difícil de entender algumas partes, tem-se o conjunto de DVD para fornecer ou vender? pode ser baixado usando o Google Drive, recebo muitos arquivos e montagens de vídeos e manuais para ele é fácil e simples.
    Eu aprecio se alguém pode ajudar
    Obrigado
     

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