I think the use of rollers on the phlatprinter is ingenious. I'm making a small CNC project and am considering using rollers for the Y axis. I'm curious if there is a video of the latest phlatprinter? I see various versions around but it isn't clear which is the latest. I want to make sure I learn as much as possible from this project before getting too busy with my project. I'm thinking of using pvc pipe rollers. Can anybody convince me to use something else? Mine is going to be just 12" or so wide. So it can be toted around... http://inventorartist.com/marauder-cnc/
Actually we are using the rollers on the x axis, but that could be just semantic. No reason not to use pvc pipe for the rollers if it's only 12" long.
Oh okay. I guess it's slightly subjective. I like calling the X axis whatever axis goes from left to right when standing in front of the machine. But that's just me. If I wind up using a longer roller what would you suggest for the material?
Hello @inventorArtist this is going to be cool for sure and I am looking forward to your build. Be sure to check out a couple build shared on OpenBuilds for the Phlatprinter that may help. Original Phlatprinter Build Phlatprinter MKII Still have yet to post the MK3 Have fun Mark
Thanks so much for those links! I just eyeballed them briefly for a start. One thing that is starting to come forward in my mind is if the pinch roller system will work well with hardboard and acrylic. I know there is a system called carveright (linked in my project page) that cuts wood. But I'm not sure what kind of pinch roller system it has.
More then welcome I think with a rubber coating or sleeve you would be able to do this for sure. On ours here on the Phlatforum we used grip tape because we are cutting foam sheets and it grips the foam great. Mark
Here is an older video of my Phlatprinter 3 cutting 1/4" MDF. The grip tape is the stuff used for steps at Home Depot or Lowes. Back when I had the original Phlatprinter I played with putting drawer liner material on the rollers and I switched back to the grip tape. The drawer liner material caused too much skew on any material I used.
I'm thinking the driven rollers could have a support in the middle. So each has three supports... So it would be like four rollers on two axles... wouldn't that help get a better pinch towards the center? Just a thought...
Sometimes it's not worth it to re-invent the wheel. LOL Someone, I don't recall who, put heat-shrink, or something like this, on the pressure roller so that there is a better grip on the material. I cut a lot of wood with my printer and I always use dollar tree foam as a substrate to get a better grip on the wood. I use spray contact adhesive to attach the foam to the wood. I use a guiding fence to prevent the skewing.
Hmmm, I was hoping the rollers could get me out of all kinds of fixture... I think there's a good idea. To try and find others using the Phlat to cut hardboard and see what's going on for them. Is there a special place where people who cut wood go to talk?
FWIW, I mostly cut wood with my PPIII. I use a fence for balsa. For Aircraft ply 1/8" and above I don't use anything. For 1/16" AC ply I tack to a spoiler piece of foam. Mostly I use a 1/16" bur bit (for lack of a better term) as I find I get the best cuts. I use a 2 flute router bit (1/16") for 1/4" ply. I tried a 4 flute, but got better results with the 2 flute. I use multipass of 1/16" on all the wood (Well except for the 1/16" stuff).
Thanks for all the detail on fixturing! Can you describe the fence for balsa you mentioned? I'm hoping I can get a machine to cut hardboard and acrylic in 12" width... Balsa is sexy too as I make model planes (a little know fact about me).
The fence I use is nothing more than a pieces of 1/4" MDF bolted to the printer with two C-clamps. I use two, one on each side. It prevents the material from shifting as it is moved back and forth in the printer.
