Well I didn't really keep a build log as my build was spread over several weeks with a little construction here and there. The build went relatively smooth. I rushed the paint job as I was thinking of taking it down to our clubs open house tomorrow. I used Rustoleum Hammered Metal spray paint. The problem is you don't get the hammered finish unless you let the spray pool instead of doing the usual thin coats. I haven't calibrated it yet, but all the axis' functions are working. I decided to build the "low cost stand" until I realized the screws, brackets and 2x4's had hit around $100 in Home Depot. That compounded by the fact that I coudln't convince myself to build something else LOL led me to purchase a metal power tool stand from Harbor freight. The stand was $79.99 and I had a 20% off coupon, so I got a multifunction stand for $63.99 that took 15 mins to assemble. I removed the work surface (2 screws) and the Phlatprinter sits on it perfectly and there enough width between the legs for the flex shaft. Eventually I will build two brackets so that I can swing the printer 90 degrees and use the provided material supports. I will post a photo when I get a chance. I have another rising head CNC machine that I use for cutting balsa control line kits and I'm thinking of getting another one of theses stands for it. All in all, it was fun to build. My only gripes is that I feel that the parts list and source list should be included when you purchase the complete package. If you buy a bonz kit for $499 you get it, but if you spend $1100 you don't. After I try it out, I will probably order another Phlatprinter MKII for my other hobby shop. At least that's the official plan - probably more like one at home and one at work LOL.

Bill
Hobby Central

 

Mark and Trish did a nice job on the intro to Mach 3 and Sketchup. I watched the tutorials and I've ran into my first real snag. I'm at the calibration stage. The foam keeps getting stuck. The drive roller isn't stopping, it keeps going and scuffs the foam. If I push/pull it, it'll continue to track. I sanded down the top to make sure it was not snagging the foam. I think the problem is the large pressure roller. It's not binding, but I had a hard time getting the tape flush. I think the seam is catching the foam and wedging it. I'm going to pull it out tomorrow and strip the tape off of it and start again. Maybe I'll try the spiral wrap. I'm not sure what else it could be. I'm soooo close. LOL.

Bill
Hobby Central

 

Ouch, that would drive me insane to be that close. You can confirm the seem is the problem by watching the pressure roller while jogging. If it stops at the seem that's the culprit. The fix is a bit easier then re-wraping. Just trim the offending edge while still on the roller right at the piece under it. Then pick off the little scrap and it should be flush. I think if you pull it all off you will need new tape as I don't think the sticky back will hold up.

 

I gave up at 3am and I'm off to work now LOL. I didn't use the fan-fold, I used a large sheet of 6mm Depron. I will try trimming the seam again, adding weight and glue later today. I'll stop off at Lowes or HD and get some more tape just in case. I also put a piece of balsa through it and it also gets stuck. The X drum doesn't seem to be sticking or skipping - it is spinning and scrapes the bottom of the foam.

Thanks for everyones Help.
Bill
Hobby Central

 

I sure will. I removed the pressure roller and brought it to the store with me. I picked up some non-skid tape on the way in. My wife just removed the filler strip and we' cleaned up the pipe with debonder. I might also try narrow strips of foam and see if it only happens on certain sections of the roller.

Thanks
Bill
Hobby Central

 

3DMON, we're thinking along the same lines. I just got home and finished checking it out again and figured out the problem is the drive roller. I lifted the cover and placed a piece of 1/4"x4"x36" balsa across the driver roller. I held the lid up, while I moved the balsa back and fort with the keyboard. I placed pressure with my hand on top of the balsa before and after the drive roller. There appaears to be a low spot on the driver roller that is about an inch of the circumference. The drive roller is still spinning, but for about an inch of motion it does not contact the balsa. I powered it off and spun the drive roller back and forth and it does not make contact for the whole 360deg.. I'm not sure what is causing it - thinner outer wall on one section ??? I guess I just need to raise the drive roller up - I'll have to go back an look at how to do it. My wife and I did remove all of the non-skid from the main pressure roller and did a spiral wrap with some new non-skid - looks good anyway LOL.

Bill
Hobby Central

 

Doesn't look like raising the drive roller is an easy option.

 

I lifted the top panel off and took a look at it. I jogged it and watched the sweeper on the bottom and sure enough the sweeper does not contact all 360 of the roller. I placed the top back on and pounded (don't cringe :twisted: ) the top down. Now it makes enough contact to work - I'll probably have to either replace the drive roller or add something to the surface of the roller to increase the contact. Anyway - I calibrated the X axis several times and it stayed in Cal.. I'm moving on.

Thanks
Bill
Hobby Central

 

E-T, I didn't see your post until after I made my last post. I think it is only slotted on the left side. I'll have to go back and take a look to be sure - that would be an easy fix.

Thanks
Bill
Hobby Central

 

3DMON, it might very be out of round as it does catch except for about an inch. I've calibrated it and checked it several times right now - with no apparent problems. I'm sure its probably not resolved long term - but I'm going to try cutting something for grins.

Thanks
Bill
Hobby Central

 

I tried cutting out a test project, but it slipped half way through the cut. I'll have to take another look at the drum tomorrow.

Bill
Hobby Central

 

Bill, I will guess that you have the feed drum set a bit too low in comparison to the table of the PP. Did you add a layer of something to the tabletop (as I did)? I ask, because my machine would do exactly the same thing occasionally, so I added shims underneath the roller bushings to force the drum up by about 1/16" on both ends. (Doing that was a lot easier than finding a thinner sheet of HDPE lying around in my garage).

 

No I didn't add anything, but it may be just too low. I will try shimming it up tomorrow.

Bill

 

Although I don't know if it would stick or not, couldn't you just wrap another layer of Anti-skid tape around the drive roller? or is it to far off on the low spot for that to help?

 

Yeah, I think for whatever reason the roller is out of round and it is just enough to lose sufficient contact to move the material. I thought about adding non-skid to the low area. But, I don't think it would stick and I would think that would mess up the calibration. I just finished removing the drum. Before I removed it, I marked the drum with nail polish where it was slipping.
After removing the drum, I can see what the problem is. In the area where the drum makes good contact there is no lip on end cap/gears visible - where it slips there is a gap between the lip and the non-skid. It is the same at both ends which would make me think it is a problem with the actual pipe and not the end cap/gears. Mark, I'll email you.

Thanks
Bill
Hobby Central

 

Mark I'm out for the day and I've been trying to pm u without sucess from my iPhone I will email you tonight as I want to order a bunch of stuff and possibly a phlatformer. Iwill email you in a few hours. I cant wait to play - thanks for your excellent support.

Bil