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Inlay wood into wood.

Discussion in 'General Talk Forum' started by Tweakie, Mar 9, 2011.

  1. Tweakie

    Tweakie Member

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    I have been looking at inlay work and how it can be done using a laser. It’s early days yet but thanks to Switcher I have some nice .dxf’s to practice with and it is really just a matter of getting the dimensions of the cutout and insert correct so they will fit with minimal clearance. These are my first attempts, which are not really that good but it can only get better with practice (I hope). These are Obechi inlaid into Teak.

    Tweakie. Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  2. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    This is awesome Tweakie! I never thought a laser would cut through wood that thick.
    great job really turned out very nice :good:
    Mark and Trish
     
  3. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    Cool stuff.... Mark/Trish... It looks like the large piece only cut the thickness of the inlay. Also lasers can cut just about anything if you have one large enough. Problem with cutting the whole way through the thicker wood is the kerf is larger at the top than bottom and the thicker the wood, (or any material) the more pronounced this is.

    FWIW, I tried this with the PP as I work for a veneer company and one of the sales guys asked if I could make some inlays of 2 different species of wood. The PP cut it out GREAT, but the problem was I had to make the tabs rather large (about 1/4") or the veneer split. With tabs that large in was REALLY hard to sand them down, and still make a tight inlay. IF you got too aggressive when trying to cut them, or sand them, it split. I tried lightly tacking the veneer to a carrier and not use tabs, but when I tried to remove the veneer from the carrier, it split like crazy. You can soak the veneer as that's what is sometimes done when a manufacture uses it, bit I really don't want to put wet wood through the PP. I did try a manual cut with the bit I use, and with the wet wood it wasn't a good cut at all.
    Fun experiment though.
     
  4. Tweakie

    Tweakie Member

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    :D :D The Obechi inlay is only 2mm thick and the laser cut about 1.5mm into the surface of the Teak so approx 0.5mm of the inlay was sanded off when the adhesive was dry.
    On the minus side there is a burned edge to the cut inlay which still shows as an outline when sanded down. (Using Nitrogen as the assist gas may help to reduce this).
    On the plus side the kerf is only 0.05mm wide so nice sharp corners are possible.

    Tweakie.
     
  5. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Thanks for the information guys, now I have a better understanding of this was done. Kinda like pocketing, but with a laser right ?
    @rcav8r You know I wonder if using a foam carrier would have worked for you so that you would not have to use tabs at all, or at least very few?
    Thanks again
    Mark and Trish
     
  6. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    Do you mean sandwiching them? <foam - veneer - foam>
    I was thinking of giving that a shot; just don't have the time right now.
    It cut great without tabs when it was tacked to the foam carrier...just couldn't get the stuff off the carrier without destroying it.
     
  7. Tweakie

    Tweakie Member

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    I tried some laser marquetry the other day - cutting the same image in two, contrasting coloured, veneers. Provided one is cut on the inside of the line and one is cut on the outside of the line (using tool radius offset) when the parts are fitted together there is no kerf and a perfect fit.

    Tweakie.


    [​IMG]
     
  8. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Turned out awesome!
    We need a laser head attachment for the MK3! :doubleup:
    Mark and Trish
     
  9. Tweakie

    Tweakie Member

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    I am sure it could be done, if only the parts weren't so darn expensive. :boo:

    Tweakie.
     
  10. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    Turned out GREAT!!!
     
  11. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    I am reading through some of the precautions and maybe its not such a good idea :questions:
    There is some great info here for anyone wanting to know more about lasers in general
    http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersaf.htm
    Mark and Trish
     
  12. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    Yea, as cool as it is, I think I'll stick to that sharp spiny thing that goes up and down for now. It can cause enough damage if not careful
     
  13. pagercam

    pagercam New Member

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    Maybe cutting knife like they use in vinyl cutters would work, veneers are usually 1/32 or so, so shouldn't be too tough to cut. If the material is 2mm this probably wouldn't work through. Didn't I hear on one of your live shows that you bought some cutters?
     
  14. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    pagercam,
    Thats a good idea. I did not know that the wood was so thin.
    We do have the cutter attachment that will be coming out soon, but I am thinking that it would be milled into a thicker piece of wood .
    If thats the case you could use the knife to cut out the inlay, and then use a small bit to do the mill out? Not sure but it may work on larger designs, if you get to small you will see the radius of the bit size your using, but the sizing may look fine for the project.
    Thais will be a cool projects to try out
    Mark and Trish
     
  15. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    I work for a manufacture of veneer. We don't have any species that you could cut easily with a knife.

    Actually I went downstairs and tried some last night when I read pagercam's post. I have some 0.5mm walnut, and beech in the basement from my previous experimenting with cutting inlays. It cuts, but not without a fair amount of pressure cross grain. If you put too much pressure, it wants to pull the grain apart. With the grain isn't all that much easier, and it really wants to follow the grain. I used a new Xacto blade.

    Maybe multi-pass, but not sure how you would control the depth of cut when cutting a half mil.

    If I have time tonight, I'll try a sandwich of foam/veneer/foam no tabs, to see how that works.
     
  16. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    Well I tried to make the inlay cuts using foam/veneer/foam. Seemed like a good idea at the time :roll:

    The parts still shifted, so the size in some areas was a bit off. Also on some of the smaller pieces the veneer split. Larger simpler pieces would more than likely work. I may try it, but to me the really cool aspect of this is the detail that Tweakie gets. Based on what I tried earlier (see top of this thread); unless someone can come up with something else for me to try I think I'll give up for now.

    Here's my feeble attempt using foam/veneer/foam. I just took a file I used to make painting stencil from and made an inside cut for it. Attached files [​IMG]
     
  17. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    I am guessing that the wood is so thin that it is just spiting all over the place?
    You are using foam/veneer/foam, but I wonder about just taping the veneer down? Does it just split apart when you do it this like that?
    Could it be that you are pushing to fast with a dull bit or maybe the wrong type of bit for the job that is causing the thin wood to split?
    The concept seems there, just doing and inside cut on one and out side on the other should work. I have been cutting fiberglass board that I know must be harder then veneer and getting great results.
    Mark and Trish
     
  18. TigerPilot

    TigerPilot Well-Known Member

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    Mark, I don't think you can compare the fiberglass board with the wood veneer. The fiberglass doesn't tend to split along the grains.

    just my :02cents:
     
  19. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Yoram, I see what you mean. It seems like it would be a tough one to cut, maybe with high rpm and a sharp bit you could do it? Have to get some a see
    Mark and Trish
     
  20. Tweakie

    Tweakie Member

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    Just a thought guys but some of the marquetry work I have seen done has had tape applied to the back of the veneer in order to stop it splitting when being cut. The tape does not seem to be removed when the parts are subsequently glued in place.

    Tweakie.
     
  21. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    That is a good idea Tweakie :good:
    Mark and Trish
     

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