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Note: Bit Square to Cut Surface

Discussion in 'General Phlatprinter 3 Chat' started by Darwin, Dec 7, 2011.

  1. Darwin

    Darwin Member

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    One thing you might want to check when you're setting up your machines is the squareness of the bits to the drive rollers.

    I'd never really thought of it before because so much of the PP/// is so tab-and-lock accurate. However, when I was setting up my new Pony Router attachment, I noticed that there was some flex in the system (probably because I screwed something up building the adapter, but oh well.)

    When I checked, I found that the bit was angled to the rear and to the left. I corrected it with some strategically placed strips of thin plywood. Bit is now square and remains so when I take the router motor in and out so long as I keep the shims in the same place.

    For those interested, here's how I did it:

    What you need to check for square:

    1) Use a flat piece of metal or wood big enough to bridge across the pressure rollers when they're down and in contact with the drive rollers. I used a piece of 1/4" aluminum strip that I had laying around from a previous project. Important thing is that it doesn't bend when the square sits on it.
    2) A small machinists square (hobby shop stuff) or some other suitably right-angled thing than is both opaque and capable of fitting on your "base" from #1 above.

    What you need to adjust the squareness of the bit:

    1) 1/32" or 1/64" plywood.
    2) Scissors.
    3) Patience.

    So what to do:
    1) Make sure everything's unplugged and dead. You're going to be up close and personal with your cutting head. You don't want any surprises.
    2) Make sure your pressure rollers are lowered down on top of the drive rollers.
    3) Put your base across the rollers so that you can slide your square immediately behind the bit.
    4) Get prepared to use your mark one eyeball close and personal to the bit. For me, that means taking my glasses off.
    5) Stick your noggin into the machine so that you can look directly at the side of the bit in either the +Y or -Y direction. I used -Y.
    6) Slide the square toward the bit. Please note that you don't have to hit the bit with the square. You can actually slide it behind the bit. The key is the light between the side of the bit and the edge of the square.
    7) Watch along the entire edge of the bit. When the edge of the square aligns with any part of the bit and make the light go away, stop.
    8) Now, look along the edge of the square and see if the entire edge of the bit is obscured or if there's a "wedge" of light showing. If you see a "wedge", you need to shim.
    9) Checking for square from the front is basically the same except you can do it without sticking your head into the machine.

    How to shim the Pony Router Head:

    If the tip of the router is angled backwards, you need to shim low just above the bottom adapter mounting screws. A 1/4" wide piece of shim stock will fit between the mounting screws and the base plate nut cut-out.

    If the tip of the router is angled forward (which should be really rare), then you need to shim high just above the top adapter plate mounting screws.

    Do not try to shim at the top and bottom of the adapter plate. When you tighten down the screws, the plate will bend and you won't gain any adjustment.

    If the point of your bit is tilted left or right along the X axis, then you need to put a shim under one side of the router or the other. A small 1/4" square of 1/32" stock was all I needed to fix that angle on mine.
     
  2. ToxicToast

    ToxicToast Down in the weeds. Staff Member

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    Good write up. I haven't upgraded my spindle yet but probably will after the holidays are paid off. Did you find that you needed to bump the voltage on the Z axis to deal with the added weight of the Pony?
     
  3. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Nice write up Darwin :good:
    Thank you
    Mark and Trish
     
  4. dhc8guru

    dhc8guru Member

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    I suspected the weight of the pony router would cause some issues. I would rather not check it. Ignorance is bliss! :D
     
  5. Darwin

    Darwin Member

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    I haven't actually run the unit yet. I will do some air cuts and listen to things to see if I need to change the voltage setting. I already run a higher voltage for my X because I'm running a bigger stepper there. I'll post later today with an update on that.
     
  6. Darwin

    Darwin Member

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    Another way to check and see if you have an issue is to look at the sides of your cuts that are either X or Y straight. If there's an angle to the edge, your bit is not square. This can cause some significant kerf issues on curved cuts, too.
     

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