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some experience

Discussion in 'General HBOT pro Chat' started by jovian, Mar 3, 2012.

  1. jovian

    jovian Member

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    One of the things Mark, Trish and I have wanted to do with the 3D printer is to make the workflow of designing to physical object as smooth and eventless as possible so that we can see all the cool objects you guys can make.

    One of the things that needs to be done in this regard is to come up with some reasonable defaults and hardware setups for the slicing, control, firmware, and even the hardware. In the above picture you can see how we have progressed.

    The first one The X and Y were calibrated with a guess in Z

    The second shows the X Y and Z and extrusion length was calibrated with several changes in the slicing settings file. Temprature was also turned down

    The third show yet some more changes to the settings (mainly retraction) temp was turned back to previous settings.

    I couldn't figure out why I was loosing steps for the longest time until I talked with Mark. He mentioned that the electronics get real hot (and they do) but that would cause it to loose steps. fixing that involved blowing air over the heat sinks of the driver boards and you can see we get a nice result.

    While it is important to realize that each print will require their own tweaking to the settings. I think we have are close to acceptable settings for the start of all your projects! Attached files [​IMG]
     
  2. 3DMON

    3DMON Moderator Staff Member

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    Looks like the final results came out very well. :good:
     
  3. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    :cool: nice to see the progress..... Still seems there is an art to it.
     
  4. 66tbird

    66tbird Moderator Staff Member

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    Progress for sure.
     
  5. 66tbird

    66tbird Moderator Staff Member

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    I couldn't wait, just to much I need to make, so I got an MBI Replicator Dual-struder. It's pricy as heck but boy does it do good prints. There is no need for clean up afterwards and the quality at the stock .027 layer thickness is better than any sample I'd received from any of the other bots or bot makers. I haven't even changed the stock default settings.

    I grabbed the http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19304 gyro cube thing and dropped it into ReplicatorG and reduced it down 25% then recoded it with my machine defaults(one click) and onto an sd card it went. 11 hours later it finished and was flawless.

    Work flow from SK is super easy. Built it correctly watching for non solids then export as stl via a plugin. Then drop it into ReplicatorG and then recoded it with your machine defaults(one click) and onto an sd card, remember to grab the gcode file and put it on the sd because repG defaults to the retrieval location on that :(

    The only issue so far was the pinch roller set screw for the filament pinch roller didn't fall on the stepper shaft flat. Ten seconds with a careful touch of a dremal fixed that.

    What I'm trying to say is I'm blown away by the quality and now the ability to make good quality parts has just got ten times easier and four times faster and at a tenth the cost. I'm look forward to Mark getting his machines out and how the minds here put them to use. Now I've got a spatual handle to print while I design the gimble for my fpv tri.

    So far I've make these items in the four days I've had this. Each required no clean up. just popped off, remove raft and go
    gyro cube
    ten (10) whistles
    four speaker brackets
    two motor mounts
    an ipod case
    knob levers
    two heavy duty locking clips
    seven window locks

    I've made a small dent in my filament. I ordered more colors too, all ABS, neon yellow and neon red, silver, tan, and glow in the dark. each a 1kg spool. This is going to be a fun ride :dance3:
     
  6. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    This is great to hear John! :good: 3D printing is a really awesome addition for all of us DIY RC guyz! I can't wait to get the Phlatforum set up to share the RC related stuff we all come up with here. Like you say this is going to be a fun ride! :dance3:
    Mark and Trish
     
  7. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    Yea, this 3D printing stuff just keeps getting better and better....
    Any pics of the machine and the goodies it made?
     
  8. 66tbird

    66tbird Moderator Staff Member

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    Sure, here's a few pics.

    T he gyro cube has a better side and the lighting really brings out the inconsistencies of .02mm or so.

    The pic of the curvy thing is the spatula handle taken in macro so you can see the .027mm layering.

    The whistle is the worst one I made. Printed with the ball inside of course.

    The black and white cube is the 20mm calibration test for the duelstruder(sp?) I've sanded iit to death and its ready for an acetone dunk.

    The black speaker bracket was literally just peeled from the raft (that's that textured side) and put to use. I rounded the edges .05 and countersunk the screw holes and the print was great.

    The Replicator- front, back, side, and the business end.

    My finally finished dust shoe on my mini cnc, those are a must have. Not related to 3D printing but good advice none the less.

    My humble barn with all three machines. Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  9. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Awesome pics and really nice shop John! :good:
    Thank you for sharing
    Mark and Trish
     
  10. rcav8r

    rcav8r Moderator Staff Member

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    Yea, GREAT PICS!! THANKS for posting.

    How long does it take to Print? Say the whistle for example?

    What's the work flow for creating a part?
     
  11. 66tbird

    66tbird Moderator Staff Member

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    I did a whistle this morning and it took about 25 minutes. A few minutes are in printing the base raft. The raft makes getting stuff off much easier and its less wear on the kapton tape because there is less scraping going on.
    The raft prints very slow, about 8mm/sec I'd guess and it does an 1/8' grid pattern. The raft on the attached magnetic prop balancer took 40 minutes to set down and 2.5 hrs to print the parts. It's a 8x2.75 inch part keep in mind. The rest of the print default at 40mm/s and 80+ free traveling.

    The trick of course is calibrating for interference fit on projects like this because the storage compartment goes on with a fiction fit. I made a test box that went together so smooth that when I heard the little squeak I knew that part was not coming apart :lol: and it didn't.

    Work flow is very simple from SK. Built it correctly watching for non solids then export as stl via a plugin. Then drop it into ReplicatorG and then recoded it with your machine defaults(one click) and onto an sd card, insert in Replicator, press a button and watch it go. Attached files [​IMG] prop balancer.skp (109.4 KB)Â
     
  12. 66tbird

    66tbird Moderator Staff Member

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    My Replicator control board (MightyBoard) has just received a firmware upgrade to allow for acceleration. Basically that's where the directional transition is not an abrupt change. Before the print speed was 40/50mm/s which was limited by gantry weight and stepper power. The result at times was some rather harsh vibration while doing tight infill.

    Now the speeds can be as high 130/150 but 100/120 is the sweet spot because now the limiting factor is not the gantry weight but the extruder temp and its ability (watts). The extruders now need to run at 240-245C, up from 220C to keep up with the speed. Of course this is ABS 1.75mm filament put down on a Kapton tape covered HBP (heated base plate).

    The replicatorG software is really providing lots of ability to fine tune a print. Sometimes I'll run three different variations to find the best angle for improvement. I've also done some layer height testing and see no problem in layers down to .1mm if resolution is an issue but the print time nearly triples.

    I haven't had any delamination issues on prints done at a slow speed and as far as part strength goes when the infill is low one can fill with gorilla glue for a really solid section. Oh and I've drilled and inserted drill stock/glue with great results too.

    I also need to add that the fumes are scary and will give you a temperature and a hangover type headache. An active charcoal filter mounted in the hood is in my future. I'm fully enclosed now btw and the prints don't warp and everything stay dust free.

    Building off the wall items has been lots of fun. Here's a whistle-horn to direct the piercing sound away. Sure is easier on the ears. Attached files [​IMG]
     
  13. 66tbird

    66tbird Moderator Staff Member

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    Well I sure hope the people that expressed an interest in 3D printing aren't giving up because it just keeps getting better. I've pushed my Replicator down to 0.1mm or .005in layer height with the click of a couple buttons. Here is a 4'' tall print of the MULHER off Thingiverse.

    It seems about any good running machine can get this kind of height as long as its in tune. I did this at half of full speed or about 60 mm/s. It took about two hours.

    The last pic is of a clamp for a radial arm saw that needed a depth switch indicator light. I added a solar cell to keep a 3s-40ma nimh charged. That print consisted of all the parts in one print and it was done at full speed 120 mm/s at 0.2mm 3shells and 40% infill. It too took two hours. You can see the flaws but they are just cosmetic.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/75603686@N06/7618472556/in/photostream/
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/75603686@N06/7618465992/in/photostream/
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/75603686@N06/7618476218/in/photostream/
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/75603686@N06/7618494786/in/photostream/
     
  14. 3DMON

    3DMON Moderator Staff Member

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    Impressive! I can't wait to get my printer...
     

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