That's odd.... I just tried it from Internet Explorer and Firefox just to make sure and it plays in the page, and on my Youtube chanel...

Is anybody else having problems with it???

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

 

Very nice Fozzy! Love the yeller light!

 

Looking Great Julian, I too love the light behind the cut!! Man you have all the good ideas!!

John

 

Thanks Mark! You are absolutely right. I did look at that a while ago and thanks for reminding me to go in there and sort it out. It's one of the things that got lost on the to do list. I was kind of rushed and excited enough to forget about doing it, when I was doing the initial cuts. But I will go in there and get it set up that way. Thanks again for pointing that one out.

The hard work of setting up properly comes next, and being able to do some cuts in hard materials like plywood and MDF.... I'm going to spend the next few weeks experimenting with that and see how far I can push the monster before it turns round and bites my head off. I'll post some video of heavy plywood and MDF cuts as I go along and I'll try and do them with the good cameras rather than the rush job done with the stills camera so far.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

 

Yes Mark, I read his recommendations on that and watched you doing a carrier cut once. It does seem to work very well indeed. My objective is to get the same results without a carrier. I think it's possible to do it by creating entry and exit fences, that use ball bearing rollers. That way the material can only travel in the X direction.

I'm going to experiment with that and see how it goes. I'm waiting for the ball races to arrive at the moment. But when they do I'll be sure to post pictures of the results.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

 

You know, I used to use a large format drawing copier where that trick worked. If it was being fed a paper drawing it worked fine, but as soon as you put a drafting film drawing in there it used to slip. The same trick, put a strip of masking tape down each edge, soon taught it some manners. Thanks for reminding me of that Shaun. I'll give anything a try.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

 

I've put my monster to work doing his Evil on some 6mm Teak Plywood hard stuff......MWWaaaaa Haaaaaaa Haaaaaa!! Nothing is safe from his clutches!!!

OK so here it is after all day of frustration with the "Crack U-Tube Music Nazi Suicide Squad" Who kindly deleted the sound on two of my video uploads. This one survived with just an I-Pod music download advert attached to it (thanks for your greed Sony!!)

Cutting 6mm Hard Teak Plywood here..... trust me, this is hard stuff!! This is nothing like soft liteply or even pine ply. This is cutting at 20 IPM. Very happy with that as a speed on this material. Really what I'm doing is testing the limits of the machine and to be honest this doesn't hit them. I could probably push it twice as fast and still not have it complain.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that this was with a 1/16th diamond cut CNC bit, literally powders the wood it cuts out.... I'm going to give the 1/16th Chip Breaker bits a try next.

Thanks to the spring pressure roller mod... no foam carrier or tape or anything was necessary to get it to track straight... even without the fences on the machine. Without that spring mod there simply wouldn't have been enough pressure to keep it straight.

Crank up the volume and ROCK OUT My Biker Dude Buddies!!!



Anyway!! Here's the finished result in, as Homer Simpson would say, "All of it's red and creamy goodness" Lovely clean cuts and a nice finish to it.

It's a 1/6th scale model of a "Williams Defender" Arcade game machine..... the largest pieces there are 12" high... I'll be posting some pics of the build up in the next few days....

Next target is 10mm MDF... but that might need a multi pass cut....

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

 

Thanks guys! and hey! Tell me about it... That stuff blunts hacksaw blades!

Even I'm blown away by this. My original target was to cut 4mm Teak. But it went through that like knife through butter, so I didn't even bother with a video for it.

If you think that's good I can't wait till you see what's coming next!! You're going to fall off your chairs with shock. A couple of weeks to that one though, still dialing it in.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

 

Cheers Randy .... You know you said something about this before and I still can't work that one out... I might bend 20mm Rods..... But these are only 12mm

they're showing no visible signs of bending under a cut. It might be measurable with a mike but not visibly. I have no idea what they're made of. The only information I have is the info I got from the e-bay seller that I got them from as used items. All I know is that they're some sort of chromium (nickel molybdenum) steel.

One thing is certain, they're not the normal type of surface chromed linear rails. For one thing, I could stand on them. They individually took my entire weight when they were out of the machine without so much as even a minor bend.

It's this at 1/6th scale - http://www.klov.com/D/Defender.html

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear

 

Foz, that's awsome! I'm really impressed

Have you got a link to the 1/16th diamond cut CNC bit you used? I tried a 1/16th chipbreaker bit and nearly set my Phlatprinter on fire cutting 3mm birch ply :? lol

You better make sure the spindle doesn't detach from the gantry when you're not watching, you might come back to find a pile of sawdust where your PP used to be

 

No problemo! here's a link to the e-bay vendor. He's in Hungary. Very reliable and fair prices, I've bought quite a lot of stuff off him. http://shop.ebay.co.uk/hunbay_com/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

Take the cuts real slow, with as high a rotation speed as you get it on Si, and it should be fine.... but like I said! SLOW moves, a stock phlatprinter won't take the rotational torque otherwise. Don't push it too hard. 10 to 12 IPM should be about right. Program that into the cut file as the cut speed, and that way your rapids will still be at maximum. Hope that helps.

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

 

Cheers for the info Julian. I'll order some bits from that guy next time I need some. I used to buy my chipbreaker and router bits from a UK seller about a year ago : http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/PCB-Circu ... QQ_fsubZ17 . He only seems to be listing drill bits now unfortunately. Another source for chipbreakers is MegaUK : http://www.megauk.com/carbide_drill_bits.php

I tend to cut wood and plastic at 5ipm to be safe, any faster and I can hear the Dremel bogging down. I cut plastic at 10K RPM and wood at 33K RPM which are the min and max speeds I can get from the Dremel.

Can't wait to see your MDF tests

 

Hi Shaun,
Nope no smoke.... Just very fine dust... Being a completely dozy numpty I'd forgotten to turn the vacuum on

Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)

 

Test Build Update.....

Here's a picture of the test model I cut, because randy asked to see it as it was built....

At only 1/6th the size of the full cabinet it stands 1 foot high.... as yet unpainted, but already looks remarkably similar to the original 1980's arcade game cabinet shown on the right.


Best Regards,
Julian (Fozzy The Bear)