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PhlatCode Multipass Manglerizer NOW V 1.2.0

Discussion in 'SketchUcam Related Software' started by FozzyTheBear, Nov 17, 2009.

  1. xtremeRCpilot

    xtremeRCpilot Member

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    WOW, Great Job Randy!!! Its nice to see the Manglerizer in action, the capabilities are endless!! Thanks for the inspiration!! :)


    John
     
  2. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    started a new project that uses 1/4 thick birch plywood....i had to glue a foam carrier to the wood, as its very slippery and would easily skid in the rollers. i used v-tabbing and a .0625 dia. ball nose tool. mid dremel rpm, with a 20ipm cut feed. i used the mangler with 18 cuts. it came out rather nice....also i used a ghetto airblast set-up...hopefully i can set-up rite when i get time. sorry for the poor video, don't know why it came out crummy, but you can see it cuttin the birch ply...randy.
     
  3. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    thanks pilot...i am finding little tricks that help....and i am sharing them as i learn...randy.
     
  4. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Randy that last picture looks great! Are you using Tabs? I did not see any in that pic
    Nice job brother!
    Mark
     
  5. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    yes mark, i used tabs....i like the v-tabs better for wood, as they ramp better rather than feed straight down...the tabs came out very small and i only needed a x-acto knife to cut part from panel. im not sure, but i think they go deeper than the 50% i had set for, i think its grabbing that poke thru value for the tabbing also. ther should of been .125in. left...but it was closer to like .030in. this is why im allways asking for exact depth control
    ., lols...here is a photo of the bottom side of cut. randy.
    [​IMG]
     
  6. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    The problem is Randy that you can't cure the above problem in the Manglerizer. The Manglerizer doesn't alter the original finished design in any way at all. All it does is cut exactly what the phlatscript output in the first place, but cuts it as several passes.

    What it can't do, is to alter the position of the tabs in relation to the material. It can only limit how deep the tool is allowed to go on each pass. Altering the height of the tabs in the material is a design function and really needs to be set in the original Phlatcode.

    Even if I give you absolute manual pass depth control in the Manglerizer (which is now coming in the next version) I don't think it's going to do what you want. Although what I can do, is give you manual control over the "limit depth" of the overcut (poke through value) it won't actually move the tabs upwards.

    I'll do my best on it Randy, as I always try to...... But your real solution to this one is either as Flashsolutions said, to alter the settings in the Phlatscript, or ask Tim if it's possible to alter the default behaviour of the Phlatscript.

    Hope that explanation helps....

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  7. 3DMON

    3DMON Moderator Staff Member

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    The depth setting has been addressed for the next release of the Phlatscript, and I think you guys are gonna like it. It will be an option in the parameters box.
     
  8. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    shaun....please, your gonna give the old monkey a heart attack!!! :D :D finally...
     
  9. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    The depth of the center-lines tabs and folds should have no 'fudge factor' in them. Only Inside /Outside cuts where the bit can overshoot to take into account for the inherent waviness of the fanfold.
    So if you changed the constant file you will have exact depth on your these cuts as well.
    The new version of the Phlatscript in beta now allows you to tell the code to output the overshoot value of the inside/outside cuts only. Because these are the only ones being effected by it.
    So this issue with the bit poking out 40% more for inside outside cuts is not an issue at all with the Phlatprinter design, because there is no table for it to scar.
    It will however be nice to be able to set the amount of 'fudging' that takes place with these inside/outside cuts if only for the simple fact that your cutting flute of a particular l bit is not long enough to allow for it in the material you are cutting.
    Mark
     
  10. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    That's weird!! A whole heap of posts just vanished off the end of this thread???

    Anybody got any ideas???

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  11. gasmasher

    gasmasher New Member

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    I had an idea once... it turned out to be gas.

    The posts were moved to the beta testers area since they were kind of offtopic in regards to your Manglerizer. I think Mark moved them.
     
  12. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    Hi Tim, Yeah! that's fine... it's Marks forum, it's entirely up to him where he wants things.... I kind of thought that they were on topic because you explained how the Phlatscript was working in relation to Randy's question which was directly related to the output from the Manglerizer. That was useful for me as well. It expalined how quite a lot of things were working. If Mark wants them somewhere else that's perfectly OK. I don't seem to be able to find where they moved to though....

    I'll check in with Mark on that.......

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  13. Flashsolutions

    Flashsolutions Active Member

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    They were moved to the code crunchers section which is a private discussion group for the beta testers and programmers. The posts that were moved got off topic regarding what is in the beta release I believe.

     
  14. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    Ahhh! OK..... That's why I can't find them then.

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  15. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Sorry about that Fozzy,
    There were some things in that discussion that needed to be there and I saw that that it was heading in a direction that would have been more fitting for the code crunchers section.
    So I ended up moving them.
    I hope this does not cause a problem.
    Mark
     
  16. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    Not at all Mark... Not a problem. It would have been useful to know you'd moved it. But that's fine. The reason I noticed it, was because I was in the middle of typing a reply when you moved it and all of a sudden it wouldn't let me post the reply I was typing. But that's OK no problemo.

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  17. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Sorry about that Fozzy,
    Next time If that needs to happen I will post that it has been moved :)

    Getting back to the manglerizer program subject
    I just bought 1/4 oak and 1/2 Aspen from Lowes while I was there this morning. :mrgreen: I am going to try to cut a design tonight and see how the MKII fares.
    If I step the cuts down 1/16" each time what do you guys think would be a good feed rate setting? I am using a 1/16" fishtail chipper bit with the Phlat Bit Kit
    Thanks
    Mark
     
  18. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    With a fishtail chipper only taking 1/16" on each pass you shouldn't have too much cut pressure and should be able to run at the very least, 25 IPM. However, what I'd do personally, is take it in 1/32" bites, and run at about 60 to 70 IPM or more. The cut will finish faster and with less strain on the tool. Subject of course to getting a good grip on it and the wood not slipping in the rollers.

    The 1/2" Aspen, I don't have much experience of how hard that stuff is. So until I know the material I wouldn't like to say If it's softer than the oak. If it is, then there's no reason you couldn't cut at high rates with that as well.

    The interesting thing with hard woods is that they do have a required feed rate. Too fast and the cut will be rough. But that said, that's not likely to happen with small 1/32 bites... Too slow a feed rate however, and the tool will act like rubbing two sticks together and burn the wood. It's really a trial and error process to get it right.

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  19. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Fozzy, I talked a while with Randy last night and he helped me out a ton with using the speeds and feeds calculator he has posted here viewtopic.php?f=126&t=1367&start=0
    It should help take the guess work out for different materials.

    Last night I was up late and ended up trying the Aspen wood with the 1/16 fishtail chipper and IT WORKED!!! :D The wood I was using had a bow to it, but I figured I would give it a try anyway and low and behold, it came out AWESOME :mrgreen: I had no idea it could work so well. Its so cool on the MKII now because you can really move with it!
    After the Aspen wood I looked over in the corner of the room and staring at me was 1/4" thick piece of oak! It was like a showdown at high noon (except it was past 1am :) )
    I thought, I wonder could it do it? The words manglerize that wood kept coming to mind. So I grabbed it and went to work on the code.
    The settings were 5 passes ( Randy was right I should have done more passes :) ) at 15 ipm!
    I was getting some chatter but I let it run. about 30 min later something sounded different.
    I looked into the MKII and realized right away that I had forgotten to tab the inside cutouts of the wood and one piece had fallen halfway getting stuck and messing up the cut ( with foam this would have been fine as the roller would have run right over it, but the wood is another story all together :) ). I flung the lid open and removed the wood thinking that there is no way this worked.
    Take a look at the pics below to see the testing results. All I could/can say is WOW!! This is completely AWESOME.
    Even though I messed up the cut, I see that it will work!
    Thank you guys for all you help and to Fozzy for a cool and fun program to help the Phlatprinter cut woods.
    I will be testing more in the future and my goal (right now) is to have one of these crosses Randy made successfully cut out from oak wood!
    Mark Attached files [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  20. FozzyTheBear

    FozzyTheBear Member

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    ROFL :lol:

    That is absolutely AWESOME sweet dude!!!! What a fab present one of those would make for someone. Glad it's working for you. Great pictures!! If you like this, then you're going to flip your lid when I get the 3D Carving software sorted and fully functional. :D

    That being a Celtic Cross you're cutting there, it's from my neck of the woods..... So I can appreciate that one. We have a 7 foot tall one made of granite stone that's about 800 years old, sitting outside the post office in the village :D

    Best Regards,
    Julian (Fozzy The Bear)
     
  21. kram242

    kram242 Administrator Staff Member

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    Thanks Fozzy :D I tell its a lot of fun to see this machine cutting wood like this. I never knew it could have that kind of power!
    The only mod that I have on the MKII that would effect this is the sand in the roller. I didn't even use the guides :shock:
    It works perfect, thank you Fozzy and Randy for your help.
    I know with the Aspen wood I could have gone even faster with the cutting but it was the first on I tried so I did not want to push it.
    The design is Randy's and he drew it from scratch, I was talking with him about it last night and he is right, it really looks great when its cut out.
    Must get more wood!!! :lol:
    Mark
     
  22. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    cool mark....your mk-2 is more rigid and robust than the mk-1...with any machine, i would stick with the shallow depth faster cuts, working with a sfm and chiploads....also the foam carrier works great, for those that didnt install fences. as of far i just made a depron cross but plan on a wood one soon also. good work man...hey tell trish im not to blame now...i told ya to get to bed, lmao...
     
  23. theothers

    theothers Administrator Staff Member

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    lol Randy. All we can do is try. Once Mark gets started, you can't turn him off. I think he gets this from his parents :) BTW, great cross design. They look even better in person. Thank you for sharing them and thank you Fozzy for the Manglerizer coding. This along with the Phlatscript make a great combo!! Unbelievably cool.
     
  24. rjarois

    rjarois Moderator Staff Member

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    yea Trish, i just got a foam one as of now...i have it on my TV, and i just love it....sometimes i catch myself just staring at it, as it brings me comfort and peace, randy.
     
  25. JBourdon

    JBourdon New Member

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    how about a "mangeliser", but the other way around (horizontal X&Y, not vertical Z this time)

    I explain my idea and my goal:

    I keep trying to cut ABS.
    I have sorted my slipping/sliding problems by making guides, and sticking 5mm anti slip tape on both sides of the Y edges, and weighting the rollers.
    Every single time I still end up failing because the bit gets too hot and melt the ABS, and after it doesn't cut at all. (even when using the mangeliser, and cutting 3mm in 6 pass at very low feedrate)

    what I was thinking was:
    1 -spin the bit
    2 -plunge the bit through all the thickness of the material to cut.
    3 -retract.
    4 -stop the bit
    5 -wait for predetermined amount of time to allow it to cool down
    6 -move by 1/2 diameter of the bit or full diameter
    go to step 1 following all the rest gcode

    -might be safer to leave unattended (i am always afraid the friction starts a fire)
    -granted it might take forever to cut a large piece, but it could be quite bearable since the dremel only spins for a short portion of the total time
    -granted the imperfect edges might need a quick filing to clean them off.

    What do you think?
     

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