clay, one thing i just noticed....the "u-channel" might prove to be to flexible, and elastic...better to use stiffer round tube, or square tube. flimsy arms can cause oscillations. randy.
Randy you've just got to make a cool looking canopy for yours it keeps reminding me of a flying smoke detector, at least maybe a clear bubble on top so that it looks like a UFO Just messing with ya Mark and Trish
Merry Xmas Still waiting on the boat from china. I weighed the frame of my Tri and it comes up to 14oz... The aluminum is solid, does not flex at all, just a little on the heavy side. Thinking of throwing it out yet again and using some carbon fiber arrows I have laying around. The problem is arrows are meant to flex when you fire them, they have a bend to them. What is an acceptable "bend" Also, cannot come across any PCB board or fiberboard locally. Any ideas? I was thinking of going to a plastics supply and grabbing some for my frame piece to lighten it up. What do you think is a good weight for a tri w/ 750kv motors? Clay
clay, i would stay with the 1/4ply center frame, and the wood or aluminum arms....dont be to concerned about the weight, it will be ok. you want the arms rigid as possible. when i get time later, i will post my auw. yours at 14oz. is very light.....i think i can recall mine being around 45oz with a 3200mah pack. randy.
CF arrow shafts can be purchased from 4mm to 16mm in outer diameter, usually at 1 meter in length, pultruded (uni-directional fibers) or spirally wrapped or spirally wound (omni-directional fibers), with wall thicknesses in any variable you can imagine. Many golf clubs use CF shafts that are specifically softened (by design) to allow them to flex. In other words, you shouldn't rule this option out. If interested, I'll dig out some of my stunt-kite design references and post some links for you.
Randy, 14oz, was just the frame. I will look back at how much your hardware was (i have approx the same gear as you) and total that up. I think I might be doing a rebuild before this even gets off the ground. My hardware came in, that stupid wireing harness is kicking my butt. I went with braided copper wire because 20 ft of it cost me $4. The hobby shop wants a ridiculous price for battery wire. Also it isnt a terrible thing that I am hardwiring the ESC / Motor is it? Clay
Uh oh, the wifey signed for a box from dell...... Headplay, I might have forgot to mention I bought one. I have a nice shed in the front yard 12' x 12', might be living out there for awhile, internet is poor. Hopefully my next post doesnt come from the shed with a bruise on my head from a frying pan. I'm ditching the aluminum arms and the Carbon fiber arrows. Just reread Randy and Signguys post and I think Randy is right, go with what works. Especially on my first build. Headed to Homedepot tommorow to buy some 5/8s or 1/2 popular. I have some red oak in the garage (scrap from making my wife a desk), that might be a BIT to heavy lolz Clay
Randy, I know I am a year too late, but I just made this up to see if it was possible. Total price 5$ from lowes. 1x bullet connector 1x 25 ft wire. Its 16 gauge because that is what is coming off of my ESC. Not happy with that, but hey it "should" work. And it doesnt weight anywhere near an oz. I have been taking alot of pictures today. Should I start yet another build log, or do you think the 800+ pages on RCgroups is enough? Clay Attached files
clay, your harness should work and be ok.....make sure you black sharpie up, as to identify the negative polarity. that was sign-guys theme from the start..."tricopter on the cheap" ....as far as to what your asking about the posts of your build photos, your welcome to use my thread here for them, i made the thread for hopes of anyone getting any tips or help from it. randy.
Will do on the photos. I bought the black wire as well..... soldered all afternoon, now just hardwiring the motors, making sure they are all spinning in the right direction. Just tested the receiver settings, I used rcexplorers guide, but he is using a futaba. You wouldnt happen to run a DX6I and could pass me a good start for settings would you? If not have you seen one online. I have been looking for the better part of an hour and cant find one. Anything would be much appreciated. Clay
Clay, have you seen this thread? http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1261382? You wouldn't need any special setting if you use this controller. In the meantime, you can look at this thread for heli setting on a DX6 http://www.heliguy.com/Forum/viewtopic,p,163582.html and at this thread for tri setting on a DX7 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost ... count=1965
I ordered an Ardinuo (spelling) board a couple of days ago, just waiting on it. I think I need a lot of help when it comes to soldering things that tiny. I dont mind soldering esc's deans plugs, and motors, but when its something small and rather expensive, (going to get the wii and knunchuck at target) I dont want to screw it up. I looked on http://radio-commande.com/international ... er-design/ and he said that "4) Be sure your ESC can support PPM with 490Hz refresh rate. " I bought the http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... oduct=6458 and there is very little documentation about it so I dont know if it has the refresh rate. Also, I brain farted and forgot to order the usb connector for it : / FYI, I was farting around looking at the settings in the DX6i and saw that I was on european power setting, looks like if you change it to US (where I live) you get twice the range. Clay
As promised here is my "build log". Nothing new for you guys, but might spark some ideas. Just going to add the pictures and use the comments portion for explaination. Thank you very much for your support and ideas, otherwise I would still be in the basement ripping my hair out. I did maiden it today. Sorry no video, my wife thinks its "stupid" and woudnt tape it for me..... :| Attached files
wife thinks its stupid, lols.. as far as that Arduino board i read ther the whip....but its beyond my electrical knowledge.....as I'm just a monkey that made it outta high school....if i was younger i would take a electrical course in the local college. randy.
Wifey wants to watch a movie then go to a party, happy new years by the way. I will post the rest of the pictures later. Attached is my finished version, enjoy. Clay Attached files
Tail arm, made from 1/2 " poplar. Carbon arrow fitted, both of the bearing holder things glued. Attached files
motors on "motor mounts". Just CA glued to 1/4" Ply with a hole in the bottom for the shaft to fit in. Then Hot Glued and zip tied down to arm. Attached files
1. Frame put together, was thinking I should have used nylon bolts and nuts for weight. But after all is said and done, this thing is as light as a feather anyways. I think it weighs as much as my multiplex blizzard. (Still need a scale). 2. Yaw mount, since the picture was taken, I reinforced the control arm. Attached files
Lastly, I was looking around in my pictures folder.... Here is a picture when I was at Fort Knox with R. Lee Ermy. Actually made it on Mail Call during Scout Leaders Course. If anyone has the episode I would love a copy =-] Attached files
clay, looks like ya got it....hope you enjoy flying, or learning to fly the tri as much as i do. after of over 25 years of flying planes, i still have to remember that the multi copters don't glide, lols. have fun, peace, randy.
I flew 2 times today trying to do some adjustments and have a couple of questions if I may. I cannot get the tricopter to oscillate. I was reading on how to set up a tricopter on rcexplorer and he says to keep increasing the gyro until it woobles, then back it off 10% and that is as stable as it will get. Well I kept increasing it and it didnt "feel" like it was doing anything. Am I doing something wrong? Secondly, it "drifts" to the left and forward. I tried to trim it like a fixed wing which didnt seem like it was doing anything either. I am more worried about taking my fingers off the sticks more than a fixed wing to adjust it in mid air so I can't really tell if im doing anything....... I am just lost to be honest with you. -Clay Hope all is well
clay, on my jr 2.4ghz set-up i have the 3 throttle flight gyros tied into the throttle channel. the more i approach the servo the wilder the gain goes. mine flies good on 15 across the board. when you arm the gyros, try to set the frame level as you can, with trims on neutral setting, including your sub trims. hope this helps, randy.