blindflight, thanks...after i get my printer runnin again, im going to make some mounts for the leds...make my top, and it will be finished...well til i make a camera mount, lols. randy.
I saw something a little ghetto. You have about 40mah running through a plug, that could handle about a thousand times that. I can't wait to see the tricopter with a body of some sorts on it. Great job Randy. Jeff
foamlvr, lols, i was thinkin that when i was soldering up that 900mah single cell, lols. today i am going to get a red and green led for it. im very much looking foward to getting this finally done. randy.
i have posted cut files of the center frame. recently i got a pm with a question....it reminded me of a mistake i made during the build. i purposly omitted the battery shelf. that was a big mistake, as the tri needs this for ballance because of the yaw arm. if anyone decides to cut a frame with the files, they will have to add the shelf, as i did. it would be better to program in to the bottom center frame. the dimentions are 2.0 x 6.0 im sorry if this messed anyone up. randy. program shelf on lower center frame, for lipo mount...
also i forgot to add...anyone building a tri, and if you so desire, please feel free to post your build stuff here....i think it would be cool to have a big tri thread were would share all our ideas, etc.. randy.
Morning RJ Last night I cut 3 pcs of aluminum 1/16"x 3/8" x 1/2" "U" shape extrusion for my tri-copter. I notice the size the one guy mentioned was 2pcs 20" and 1pc 18.5". I heard talk of an average of maybe 20" to 25" would be really stable.So I made mine 2pcs x 22" & 1pc x 20 1/2"... I tried to find a 50 size grip for the "YAW" but will go to hobby store and get one.As far as motors,I ordered the same ones as you did. I'm getting there slowly...lol lol.. I am going to use some "Kydey" plastic scrap we have at work for the two flat parts. I weigh the 3/16 & 1/4" and see how much weight were dealing with.I do want to make the arms fold for transportation.. I may shape some wood / EPP foam and pull some 1/16 plastic for a canopy/cover. Or even make some arms...So many ideas...Any thing I should know that you have run into? I'll also get some pics.. Thanks BLINDFLIGHT
went to get my red, green leds for the right of way navagation lights. they were out of the 10mm size, so i got some little square leds. figuring they would be alright, they turned out to be cheesy... now that the wiring harness is made, i can change out the crummy lamps, for some 10mm sized when ther in stock... i dont mind ghetto, as long as it does what i want....fellas, dont waste your money on the little square leds if you decide to make something...to me ther a big waste of time, even though they didnt cost much. i still have to mount them on the tri...here is a video of them. randy.
meistertek, the blinking sequencce is random, as i used two seperate boards to run each pair of lights.... the problem is the leds themselfs, i got....radio shack was outta stock of the ones i wanted...i got the ones in the video, as settling for the ones i wanted, as ther were out of stock...the white strobes are 10mm sized... and the colored ones are little square pieces of junk, i settled for....since they were out of 10mm bulbs... before i mount to my model, i want to get the right parts ....randy.
It seems like Radio Shack is getting worse and worse about having a good stock of parts the past few years. I used to remember being able to get anything I needed there, now it's like, "nope that's out of stock, dang they only have one, I need two." I usually end up driving to three Radio Shacks before I get everything I need! :evil: But on the other hand no one else has stuff like this "right now"!
mastertec, i hear ya bud....for now i have decited to leave the leds alone and use them as is. all i have to do is make the top and im done. i ordered a chip from easy cnc, and when that arives i can cut. mark was kind enough to fix the drawing i had. the drawing part of this hobby is a big handicap for me, as i never had any kind of experence with that kind of thing. im such a electrical idiot also, im surprised the leds even work, lols. randy.
I would not recommend using a 'U' channel. There is one guy who used a 1/4" one and had to make some changes because it is too flimsy. If you will hold the arm in both hands, at the ends of the arm, you'll be able to twist it a bit. When the motor runs this may cause it to harmonic oscillate. Use a tube instead. Way more solid.
al, just use regular props...the yaw is way more powerfull, than the little torque non counter props add. i use the great planes 10 x 3.5 props from towers... randy. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLKW4&P=0
messing wondering, were i was going to mount my leds...i stuck the strobes in the ghetto wiffle ball landing gear...i think they have found ther new home....randy.
Looking like a UFO Randy.. really nice I like how the balls light up! But the real question.... does she fly!? Mark
Your going to have call the disco tri copter soon No really the lights look sweet, I bet you'll be able to fly at night!
thanks mark...heck yea it flies, lols...although i only flew once, it was cold as heck...it got up to 43f today, but was working around the house. next flight is going to be in the backyard. i will try to get video. I'm hoping my chip gets here soon, as i want to get the tri finished up, i still have to make the top piece. randy.
i got a question asked by PM...it was concerning the two long arms, and the one short. i figured i would post my answer here in case anyone else was wondering why this is... the two long arms are the front ones...the one short arm is the yaw arm, its shorter to allow the length of the yaw mechanism. when the tri is done all three motors are the same distance from the center of frame. mine is 22in from center of frame to center of motor, and all three arms are equal. when done. randy.
Update on Tri Copter, using plastic with 1/4 "bolts will change to plastic for weight. The end of plastic will be bent up to make a lip so battery will not slide out , will use velcro to mount in place. Attached files