Actually it is the yellow and brown wire on the low voltage side that need hooked up, cap the brown wire, it is a common wire. http://www.altronix.com/products/data_s ... 428175.pdf
Did you mean Yellow and black, cap the brown? :questions: I'm not understanding the whole common wire thing. :think: ~ Nathan
Oops, yes cap the brown. the common wire is like the household ground wire that you do not have a spot for
Maybe I'm reading this different, but the way I see it, Brown and yellow for 24V A/C Brown and black for 28V A/C Yellow and black will give you 2V A/C
Your right, i was still half asleep when i wrote it, you want to go brown and black and cap the yellow
Awesome! Thanks for the info. I presume that it is brown to negative and yellow to positive on AC in on the board, correct? ~ Nathan
A/C is just that.... Alternating. There is no positive, and no negative. There is a hot and neutral (along with ground), but the transformer isolates that from your house mains....
Alright! Thanks for the info. Wired the supply up with a new plug, it works. Wired it up to the board, it works. Wired it up to the PC and installed Mach 3, going to test that soon! For those of you wondering, I am using the TB 650 4 axis driver board from Hubbard CNC. ~ Nathan
NICE JOB NATE!!!! Congratulations, Bro you hung in there and got it done. Now you will be rewarded with never having to hand cut your models again! Great work Nate Mark and Trish
Here's the manual for the board I'm using... not entirely sure how I should set the dip switches. Also, I'm getting a grinding noise from the steppers whenever I try to calibrate or hit send printer home for anything driven by allthread rods. When I'm just jogging it by the arrows, I have no problem. :questions: Thanks, ~ Nathan Attached files HY-TB4DV-M 4 axis driver board manual.doc (1.3 MB)Â
Thanks Mark for the 16th step and 3500 hz input. It's working great! Until the wires come lose from the circuit board. :dash1: Need to find a way around the screw clamp downs. :think:
No cuts yet. Still trying to figure out how to get the wires connected securely to the driver. The supplied screw connectors with the board are absolute garbage. Had one fall apart and 2 screws pop completely out on others. ~ Nathan
Maybe solder some wires to a wire block? Like one of these: Part # 7618K613 http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/751/=kbpk7e Thank you could just connect the steppers to the wire-block. You may even be able to screw the wire-blocks into the MDF as well to keep them in place. :02cents: Keep us updated Mark and Trish
rcflyboynj, You are really doing a good job, I really liked watching your videos you are really doing some cool stuff. Thanks for the camera video that will be my next step
Mark, Thank you for the suggestions. The wire blocks were fine, it was the screws on the actual driver board. Talked to a friend in home security, and he informed me that I was turning the screw backwards. It's hard to explain. I will have to draw a picture to illustrate it for other people who might be using the same board. All the motors work now and are getting connection, Just need to get the Y axis tuned right, still getting the grinding at high speeds. Also got a message saying "One or more of your motors is tuned too fast for your kernel speed (35000)" Not sure what that means? :think: ~ Nathan Attached files
rcflyboynj, I don't know if you already solved the error problem but if you didn't, the error is the inch/min setting for the axis. You can set it lower in the motor setting window. If you need more help in setting them, let me know.