That would be great. Here is the one that I have been using. Thank you very much for doing this

Attached files Phlatprinter1024_V2.5 _light.zip (16.8 KB)Â

 

Try this Ray.

This is a VB button and within Mach select 'Operator / Edit Button Script' and the button will flash. Click on it, delete any code that is already in the box (if any) and then paste in your chosen script then click on save and close the VB box. Clicking on the new button should now activate the script you have inserted. The LED is 'OEM Code 825' (which is the probing LED) and this should illuminate when your touch switch is closed.

Tweakie. Attached files Phlatprinter1024_V2.5 _light2.zip (16.3 KB)Â

 

Thank you Tweakie for adding that. Looks good. Now I just have to figure out the script. The one I tried sort of works but not correctly. Hoping I can figure it out..just getting frustrated with it at the moment .... I seem to be going in circle.

Thanks again for fixing my screenset.

Ray

 

Hi Ray,

Don't know if this helps but...
The script basically uses the Z axis DRO to apply an offset. The variable 'Plate thickness' is the distance between the actuation point of the switch and the surface of the work (Z zero). This distance can easily be measured by touching the tool onto the work, zeroing the Z-DRO then jogging the axis until the switch activates. The 'plate thickness' setting can then be read from the Z-DRO and entered into the script. Once this has been done it does not need changing again unless you alter the height of the switch, of course.

Tweakie.

 

It is so cool to see how many folks are jumping on this!
I am glad I was able to help out!

 

My apologies for jumping onto your thread but once you started the ball rolling I just couldn't help myself.

Tweakie.

 

No no, by all means expand on it! I wasn't trying to be sarcastic, I'm really glad to see everyone joining in, hopefully this really helps out. -Finding that zero has been my biggest trouble.

 

With the help from Tweakie on the script and screenset, I have this mod working well. It is definitly well worth it as it takes all the guess work out of setting the tool bit height.

I didn't want to deal with having anything mounted to the table top, so I chose to use a touchplate instead. Doing so, also eliminates the need to determine any kind of offset because the bottom of the touch plate rest directly on the table top surface which is where it should be zero'd. But should you decide to use something mounted above the work surface you just need to edit the script file and enter the appropriate number under the PlateThickness entry

The issue with using a touchplate though is that the tool bit must be grounded in order to complete the circuit when it touches the plate. In the case of using a dremal the bit is insulated from ground. I did not want to deal with attaching an alligator clip from ground to the tool, so I made up a fixture using an old wire brush wheel from my dremel kit. See attached picture. For the plate, I just used a piece of PCB. I wired the brush to ground, and the PCB goes to pin 15.

For the Mach settings I went into "Ports and Pins" then "Input Signals" tab. Scroll down till you find "Probe" put a check mark in the Enable box, choose a Pin Number ( I used 15), and then put a check mark in "Active Low"


Then using the script attached I enabled the Auto Zero Button. Tweakie added this button to the screenset I was using which is linked below. You could use the one that Evil-Tunes has posted above.
Once you have a button to use on your screenset, attaching the script is very easy....In Mach go to the menu bar and choose the "Operator" tab, from the drop down menu choose " edit button script". This will make the editable buttons on your screen flash. Choose the button that you want to use for this script, and paste it in. Close the editor and test.
Hope this helps others. For whatever reason i was having a heck of time getting this to work correctly, but with the help from Tweakie and finding some settings i had wrong, all is working well and it really is a pretty simple thing to do now that I understand whats going on. Attached files AutoTool Script.doc (25 KB)Â Phlatprinter1024_V2.5 _light_autotool.zip (16.3 KB)Â

 

I can post some pictures .... first picture shows how the brush comes in contact with the bit. Of coarse when setting this up the plate would be flat against the top surface and the brush hangs below. I only have it raised to take the piture. Next two pictures show the autotool status LED. It is off when the bit does not touch the plate...when the bit touches the plate, the LED turns green and the Z axis is set to zero.

Attached files

 

I like the idea of using a Dremel brush Ray, solves the 'double insulated' issue.

Just one point, worthy of note, copper tarnishes over time and the oxide produced on it's surface is a pretty good electrical insulator. I have been using a PCB copper touch plate for some time now and I just have to remember to polish it up a bit from time to time. One day I plan on getting a piece of PCB electroplated gold.

Tweakie.